After an amazing first week exploring Scotland, we were ready to continue our road trip. We’d already seen some beautiful places, but little did we know that some of our favourite stops were still to come.
This week would take us from the Cairngorms to Loch Ness, along the east coast and right across the north of Scotland, with some incredible beaches, woodland walks, wildlife and a few changes of plan along the way.
We were travelling in our campervan with our three dogs, mixing campsites with budget-friendly overnight stops to keep the costs down.
Loch Morlich Campsite – A Beautiful Spot in the Cairngorms
After spending around four hours walking up Cairngorm Mountain, we headed down to Loch Morlich Campsite, which was only about a 5–10 minute drive away.
We paid £33 per night with electric hook-up, which included full campsite facilities. In 2026, you’re looking at approximately £38 per night.
The campsite is in a beautiful woodland setting, with pitches tucked away amongst the trees. I particularly liked the forest pitches, although I’m not sure how much sunshine you’d actually get sitting outside your van.
One of the best things about staying here is the location. From the campsite, you can walk through a wooded area straight onto the sandy beach overlooking Loch Morlich.
The views are absolutely beautiful, with the mountains surrounding the loch. There’s also a watersports centre, although I’m not sure whether it was operating when we visited in mid-September.
This is a busy campsite, with plenty of campers arriving and leaving throughout the day, but the location more than makes up for it.
For more info click here https://glenmore-campsite.com/
Cycling to the Green Loch
After getting settled, we decided to get the bikes out and explore.
Just across the road from the campsite is a walking and cycling track through the forest.
We followed this towards the Green Loch, also known as An Lochan Uaine.
What a beautiful place!
The water really does have a green colour, and surrounded by woodland, it feels like somewhere completely different.
The forest track appeared to carry on for miles, although we weren’t sure exactly where it went.
We cycled approximately 5–6 miles altogether, which was a lovely way to spend the afternoon.
On our return, we called at the Pine Marten Bar for a drink before heading back to the van.
The pub serves food and was busy when we visited, although opening times were limited.
We’ve actually stayed at Loch Morlich twice now and discovered there’s also a youth hostel nearby which, at certain times, offers food and takeaway options. It’s worth checking if you’re staying here, particularly if you don’t fancy cooking.
Loch an Eilein – A Beautiful Woodland Walk
The following morning, we drove approximately 5–10 minutes from Loch Morlich Campsite to Loch an Eilein, another beautiful spot in the Cairngorms National Park.
Parking costs £5 per car, and from the car park, you can pick up the circular walking route around the loch, which is approximately 3 miles (5 km).
The walk takes you through beautiful Caledonian pine woodland, with lovely views across the water and surrounding mountains.
The paths are mainly woodland tracks, with some uneven and rocky sections, but there are no major climbs. It’s a lovely walk and one that you can take your time enjoying.
One of the highlights is the ruined castle sitting on a small island in the loch.
The castle dates back to the 14th century and was once associated with Clan Grant. It’s believed that the island was originally connected to the shore by a causeway, which is now submerged beneath the water.
Although you can’t walk out to the castle, you get some lovely views of the ruins from the lochside path. With the old stone castle surrounded by water and woodland, it really is a beautiful sight.
As we continued around the loch, we passed through peaceful woodland with little openings offering lovely views across the water.
We really enjoyed this walk. It wasn’t particularly challenging, but the combination of woodland, mountains and the old castle made it somewhere quite special.
If you’re visiting the Cairngorms, I’d definitely recommend adding Loch an Eilein to your list of places to explore.
For more information about visiting, see the Rothiemurchus Estate website.
Loch an Eilein Walk – Useful Information
- Location: Rothiemurchus, near Aviemore, Cairngorms National Park
- Distance: Approximately 3 miles (5 km) circular
- Walking time: Allow 1.5–2 hours
- Difficulty: Easy to moderate
- Terrain: Mainly woodland tracks with some uneven and rocky sections
- Parking: £5 per car
- Dogs: Welcome, but should be kept under close control
- Highlight: The ruined 14th-century castle on an island in the loch
The route is relatively easy, although some uneven sections may make it unsuitable for certain pushchairs or mobility aids.
Cycling from Loch Morlich to Aviemore
Later that day, we decided to get back on the bikes and explore a little further.
This time, we took the forest track opposite Loch Morlich Campsite, but instead of heading towards the Green Loch as we had done previously, we turned left towards Aviemore.
What a lovely ride!
The route took us through beautiful woodland, and it was another opportunity to explore the Cairngorms without having to move the campervan.
I would recommend a hybrid or mountain bike for this route, as the forest tracks aren’t really suitable for a standard road bike.
Once we reached Aviemore, there were plenty of places to explore.
Aviemore has a good selection of shops, cafés, restaurants and pubs, along with larger supermarkets, including Tesco and Aldi plenty parking.
We decided to treat ourselves to a chippy tea and took it back to the van.
Sometimes it’s the simple things that make a great day!
Our Last Morning at Loch Morlich
The following morning, we took the dogs for one last walk along Loch Morlich’s beautiful sandy beach.
Looking back, we’d managed to fit so much into our stay, from walking around the lochs to cycling through the forests and exploring Aviemore.
One thing we were quickly discovering about the Cairngorms was just how many wonderful places there were to explore, all within a relatively short distance of each other.
I already knew this wouldn’t be my last visit to Loch Morlich or the Cairngorms.
In fact, we’ve since returned, and it’s still one of my favourite areas of Scotland.
Loch Ness – Woodland Walks and a Quirky Overnight Stop
Next on our itinerary was Loch Ness.
We headed towards the southern side of the loch and stopped at Farigaig Forest IV2 6XS, where we parked for free
We completed a woodland walk of approximately 2.5 miles, with viewpoints overlooking Loch Ness.
Although there were some lovely views, I have to say this wasn’t one of my favourite walks of the trip.
The car park was quite small, and although we’d considered staying overnight, we decided against it.
There was a picnic table in the car park, so we stopped for something to eat before carrying on.
We found another place to stop and admire Loch Ness, which really is huge.
We also came across the Nessie Hunter’s cabin, although unfortunately it was closed when we visited.
By this point, the wind and rain had started picking up, so it was time to find somewhere for the night.
Dave’s Rest – A Quirky Campervan Stopover
Postcode: IV63 6UU
We found Dave’s Rest, a small, private campervan stopover near Loch Ness.
This turned out to be one of the quirkiest overnight stops of our trip.
There was a large bus on site where you collected an envelope to pay for your stay and keep warm if needed.
It cost us just £10 per night, and amazingly, the overnight price is still advertised as £10 in 2026.
There was room for approximately 15 motorhomes, and it felt very private.
There were no toilets, showers or electric hook-up, but motorhome services were available.
If you’re just passing through, you can also pay approximately £5 to use the services without staying overnight.
I’d read reviews mentioning a lovely stream beside the site, although I didn’t actually see it.
The village was around a 20-minute walk away.
We ended up having a lovely evening chatting with other campers, who were also travelling the NC500.
That’s one of the things I love about campervan travel. You meet people from all over, share experiences and often pick up ideas for your next stop.
Falls of Shin – Looking for Leaping Salmon
The following morning, we set off towards Falls of Shin.
This was somewhere we’d wanted to visit because it’s well known for its leaping salmon.
We spent around an hour exploring the woodland walks and visiting the viewing areas overlooking the falls.
It’s fascinating to think that salmon make their way upstream, leaping through the powerful water.
There was also a visitor centre, café, forest walks and a children’s play area.
The car park was large, and we noticed that motorhome overnight parking was available.
For anyone planning a visit, I’ve seen overnight parking advertised at approximately £25 for 24 hours, with electricity charged separately.
For more info click here https://www.searchforsites.co.uk/marker.php?id=42355
We didn’t stay overnight, but it was a lovely stop on our journey north.
Loch Fleet – Watching the Seals
Our next stop was Loch Fleet Nature Reserve where we’d heard there was a good chance of spotting seals.
This turned out to be another memorable experience.
We parked up and spent time watching approximately 30 seals swimming and resting in the water.
It was wonderful just sitting there watching them in their natural surroundings.
One thing I’d definitely recommend is taking binoculars.
Although we could see the seals, better binoculars would have made the experience even better.
This was one of those unexpected highlights of the trip that didn’t cost us anything.
Helmsdale Harbour – £5 Overnight Parking
Postcode: KW8 6LA
We continued north and decided to spend the night at Helmsdale Harbour.
At the time of our visit in 2021, overnight parking was available for a £5 donation to the local boat charity.
In 2026, the minimum donation is now advertised as £10.
It’s a relatively small parking area with space for approximately eight vans.
There was also parking along the front, and the harbour was quite busy with campervans and people sitting outside enjoying the evening.
The village had a fish and chip shop, and there was a toilet block near the Spar.
I’d also heard that showers were available for approximately £1 for three minutes, although we didn’t use them.
Despite being quite busy, we had a lovely quiet night overlooking the harbour.
For £5, this was excellent value.
Kiess Beach – An Unexpected Favourite
The following day, we continued exploring Scotland’s east coast.
We stopped at Kiess Beach, postcode KW1 4XG somewhere that wasn’t really on our original itinerary. There is parking for approx 5 cars so limited.
It was a little off our route, but I’m so glad we made the effort.
The sun was shining, the beach was beautiful, and it turned out to be such a relaxing place to stop.
Sometimes the places you haven’t planned to visit turn out to be some of the best.
And this was definitely one of them.
Dunrobin Castle, Duncansby Stacks and John o’ Groats
We also visited Dunrobin Castle, although unfortunately, by the time we arrived, the castle itself had closed.
click here for information of prices and opening times https://www.dunrobincastle.co.uk/
We still managed to have a look around the beautiful gardens, which were well worth seeing.
We then continued towards Duncansby Stacks and John o’ Groats.
I’d been looking forward to visiting John o’ Groats, as it’s one of those places you associate with travelling around Scotland.
However, I have to say I found it a little underwhelming.
I’m glad we visited, but it wasn’t somewhere I felt we needed to spend much time.
By this point, we needed to find somewhere to stay.
Unfortunately, the campsites we tried were all full.
This was something we hadn’t really expected in September, and it meant finding an alternative overnight stop.
Strathy Beach – One of My Favourite Overnight Stops
After struggling to find a campsite, we eventually found a free overnight parking spot overlooking Strathy Beach.
It wasn’t the easiest place to find, and the road up was quite steep, but it was absolutely worth the effort.
There was even a toilet and sink available.
The views overlooking the beach were stunning.
Unfortunately, the weather had other ideas, and we had heavy rain and thunder throughout the night.
But the following morning made up for everything.
We walked down to the beach, and it was completely empty apart from us and our three dogs.
It was absolutely beautiful.
Having such an incredible beach to ourselves was one of my favourite memories of the whole trip.
Sadly, overnight parking is no longer permitted here, and the area is now for daytime parking only.
for more info on Parking and Beach click here https://www.strathybay.org.uk/
It’s such a shame because this was one of my favourite overnight spots.
However, I’d still recommend visiting Strathy Beach during the day.
Smoo Cave – Another Change of Plan
For more information on Smoo Caves https://smoocavetours.com/
The following morning, we continued along Scotland’s north coast towards Smoo Cave.
Unfortunately, the weather was still wet and cloudy.
When we arrived, we discovered that access to the cave was restricted because of the weather.
We could only visit the entrance, which was disappointing, as we’d really been looking forward to exploring.
There was motorhome parking across the road, which at the time was advertised at approximately £4 per night.
For anyone visiting in 2026, Smoo Motorhome Stopover is advertised at approximately £22 for 24 hours.
Postcode: IV27 4QA
The stopover has hardstanding parking, with laundry facilities nearby, but no full motorhome service facilities.
We decided to continue our journey rather than stay.
Balnakeil Craft Village – A Quiet Stop Near the Beach
Postcode: IV27 4PT
Our next overnight stop was Balnakeil, on the edge of the craft village.
This was a small motorhome aire with hardstanding pitches.
There were approximately six pitches, with electric hook-up and water available, but no toilets.
We paid £15 per night, and the advertised price is still £15 in 2026.
One of the best things about this stop was being able to walk to the nearby beach.
We enjoyed a lovely walk along the sand before settling down for the evening.
The following morning, we packed up and continued our journey.
Next stop, Sandwood Bay!
Sandwood Bay – Was the Nine-Mile Walk Worth It?
We’d been told by other travellers that Sandwood Bay was somewhere we absolutely shouldn’t miss.
So, on Friday morning, we set off to find it.
What we hadn’t quite appreciated was that reaching the beach involved a walk of approximately 4.5 miles each way.
The walk itself was pleasant enough, and we were looking forward to seeing what all the fuss was about.
When we finally arrived, I could understand why people had recommended it.
The beach was absolutely unbelievable.
The sand was some of the thickest, softest sand I’ve ever seen, and I’ve even been to the Caribbean!
The beach felt incredibly remote and unspoilt.
Unfortunately, the weather was nothing like the Bahamas.
Just as we were enjoying the scenery, it started raining.
And then the heavens opened.
We had no choice but to turn around and walk the 4.5 miles back to the campervan.
By the time we’d finished our nine-mile walk, we were absolutely soaked.
And our three dogs were definitely not impressed!
Was it worth it?
For the scenery, absolutely.
But would I want to walk nine miles in pouring rain again?
Probably not!
This is definitely somewhere I’d recommend checking the weather forecast before setting off.
It’s a long walk, especially if you’re travelling with dogs.
Loch Clash Harbour – Another Budget Overnight Stop
After our very wet walk to Sandwood Bay, we needed somewhere to spend the night.
We found Loch Clash Harbour, which was a popular campervan stopover.
In fact, when we arrived, there was practically a convoy of campervans queuing to get in!
There were approximately 14 vans staying that evening.
We paid £10 for the night, and despite the number of vans, it was surprisingly quiet.
The rain was still coming down, so we were glad to get settled for the evening.
Payment was made at the Spar shop on the way in.
For anyone travelling in 2026, the advertised prices are:
- £10 per night without electric hook-up.
- £15 per night with electric hook-up.
- Toilets, showers and laundry facilities are available in the village.
One important change is that the stopover is now licensed for only five vans, rather than the larger number staying when we visited.
It’s worth checking availability rather than assuming you’ll get a space.
More info click Here https://klbcompany.com/loch-clash-stopover/
Old Shore More Beach – Another Stunning Scottish Beach
The following morning, we visited Oldshore more Beach. There was small carpark with toilets IV27 4RS
After our experience at Sandwood Bay, this was a lovely change.
The beach was absolutely stunning, with beautiful green-blue water and white sand.
In fact, I thought it rivalled Sandwood Bay for beauty.
And the best part?
We didn’t have to walk 4.5 miles to reach it!
This was another reminder that Scotland has some incredible beaches, many of which we’d never even heard of before planning our trip.
After spending time enjoying the beach, it was time to continue our journey.
Next stop – Ullapool!
Overnight costs – 2021 compared with 2026
| Overnight stop | We paid in 2021 | Advertised 2026 price |
|---|---|---|
| Loch Morlich Campsite (EHU) | £33 | Approx. £38 |
| Dave’s Rest, Loch Ness | £10 | £10 |
| Helmsdale Harbour | £5 | £10 minimum |
| Strathy Beach | Free | No overnight parking |
| Balnakeil Stopover | £15 | £15 |
| Loch Clash Harbour | £10 | £10 / £15 with EHU |
| Total for these six nights | £73 | £83–£88 for five nights |
These are the prices you’ve supplied rather than independently verified current tariffs. Prices and facilities can change, so readers should check before travelling.
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